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Jason, I came across your site via Dave New's site and am impressed by the quality of the information posted. I have a 1988 900 turbo convertible with many problems. I have taken the car to many area mechanics here in Houston to getr some of these problems addressed. All I get is a run around and outrageous quotes on the work to be done. I was hoping you may have some suggestions. I cannot, at this time, afford to take this car to the local SAAB dealer. I am used to getting my hands dirty with this car even though I am not all that mechanically inclined, at least that's what my wife tells me. I would really appreciate your help in figuring out some of these problems. So here goes: 1) The car was broken into a few months back and the whole front part of the dash was messed up pretty bad. The ambient lights and the lights on the dash do not work. I replaced the bulbs and checked the connectors and all looked in good condition. I also checked all the fuses in he fuse box, no blown fuses. What could it be? The light switch made some sparks initially and was replaced and the headlights work fine just no lights on the dash and buttons. 2) The guys that did the work on the initial repair after the car was broken into apparently did a lousy job of getting the switches and buttons back to working order. The problem is that when I push in the recirculate button the fans/blower kick in on high as occurs when you turn the fan switch to the first position. The scoop in the engine compartment will not close. Also, when the fan/AC control switch is turned to the "0" position the blower continues to blow air and the speed can be varied by turning the fan switch from 1 to 3. 3) I have also been told that I need to have my bearings replaced but no one seems to give me a straight quote on the work. Is that something I can do by myself on a Saturday or Sunday, I have no special tools? I know the parts are about 60 to 80 dollars per side. 4) I am also hearing a clunking noise when I turn the wheel to the right and it mostly occurs when I am backing out for the first time in the morning and after that I don't hear it for the rest of the day. Is that related to the bearing? I had the lower control arm replaced last summer ont the driver and passenger side. I am going to try out some of your more basic AC checks during the holiday. It's not working at all. Thank you for putting up a great website. I appreciate your taking time to read this e-mail and hope you may have some suggestions for me. Thank you again. Chand

Dear Chand, I'm glad you like the site. I will try to give you some things to check to try to solve your problems.As far as your dash lights I would check the rheostat maybe when they repaired the dash one of the wires did not get plugged back on to it.Or the rheostat itself is damaged. With your Fan and rec door problems it sounds like they put the wires on the back of the vent distribution switch wrong. you will have to check that against a wiring diagram. On your wheel bearings you will need a hydraulic press to remove the bearing from the hub so you might want to bring that one in to a shop. Your clunk can be do to your wheel bearing shifting within the hub it will make a clunk noise you describe. But you should inspect the upper a-arm bushes and the suspension.Ball joint etc. but its a good chance if you replace that bearing and the mechanic installs proper shims this noise will go away. Good Luck Jason Pearce.

Jason 'cudo's on the site, it's nice to find a tech info site finally. Consider yourself on my 'favorites' list. My question is about my brake lights on my 92 convertible, how do I get them to go off by themselves every time? I have to tap up on the peddle when I leave the car as the brake lights sometimes go off & sometimes they don't. I was excited to see the TSB on '92 brake light switches but your link doesn't work. My car has 174 k miles on it. Is there an adjustment on the light switch, or does the brake peddle stick on these 900's with age? The peddle seems to work o.k. Probably unrelated but... The back right taillight has one of the parking/brake light bulbs that is always brake light bright -- yes it is a two way bulb installed.Thank you in advance George in NY

Dear George, Glad you like the site. Your problem is that the brake light switch has gone bad. I have seen this many times. The reason the tsb link on the brake switch does not work is because I just haven't had time to type all of it out. It is instructions to modify the switch bracket to accept the "new" brake switch. Actually it is the old style switch we used to have on the older 900's. It is much better switch I will get the tsb up soon. As far as your tail bulb make sure it is in correctly those dual bulbs can be inserted backwards. Look at the side of the metal section of the bulb there are two small knobs that are off from each other. Basically spin the bulb 180 degrees and reinsert. good luck Jason Pearce

Folks, Long story but here is the (sort of ) short version. I have a '97 9000 Aero. For the first 5K mi is was a bat out of hell. Then started seeming slower. Had dealer check several times, they say all is normal. Still just doesn't feel right. It eventually got to the point where the boost was bouncing all around under WOT. They finally replaced the CAB valve. This solved the bouncing, but not the performance. Still feels like there is much more turbo lag than should be with the small impeller of the newer cars vs. my old '86. There is no way I am getting 250+ lbft of torque at 1800 rpm. Also if I WOT at about 2K RPM in 3rd or 4th it takes to weel over 3K rpm to get boost going, and the turbo gauge goes all the way off the end of the red. The owners manual says that if it goes into the read there is a problem. Any suggestions or ideas on what is happening would be appreciated. Thanks, E.R.

Dear Eric, Your engine should be spinning up boost very soon after 1000 Rpm that small blade does kick up quick. I also would have to say your boost gauge should not be going into the red section. This sounds like a problem with the boost preasure control valve. This is the Black valve with 3 hoses coming off of it. The valve should be located at the top drivers side of the radiator. Is your car still under 50,000 miles? If so this should be taken care of under warranty. If your dealer still does not take care of you you should call saab customer service. Let me know how it turns out. Jason Pearce

 

I'm having a problem with the AC on my 93 9000T. It runs fine for about ten minutes, then it stops blowing cold air. If anything, the air that comes out at that point is kind of warm and humid... very uncomfortable. If I shut off the AC for a while, it will work normally again, but only for a short while. When I run the ACC test everything checks normal (no error codes). I wont try to service the AC myself, but before I bring it into a shop I'd like to have some idea of what the problem might be. Thanks very much MR B

Dear B, The first part I would check would be the anti frost switch. What this switch does is when the ac gets too cold it cuts out the compressor.When the anti frost switch goes bad I have seen them do exactly what you describe. Unfortunately though this is the type of problem that needs hands on diagnosis to be sure, testing with a volt meter and jumping switch connections. I would also make sure you have a full charge of freon. Good luck anymore questions let me know. Jason Pearce

Dear Jason,I recently bought a saab 900 turbo (1984) with 270k km. But now I have problems with my clutch. When I try to clutch I hear a whining noise from the clutch (it's coming from before the engine). But shifting was no problem. Till now. Today I wanted to shift to 5, but I could not unclutch. And now I cannot clutch at all anymore. Do you have any ideas what could be the problem? Is air a problem in the oil system? Or is theclutch broken? Many thanks in advance Regards, Joost

Dear Joost , You very well could have air in the system due to a leak. I would inspect for leaks and try to bleed the system. The noise you were hearing is probably the realse bearing getting dry. With these problems there is no easy answer your just going to have to get in there and inspect things.If you have not had the clutch changed in a long time it just may be time to do the hole thing. Good Luck Jason Pearce

(This article is meant only to educate a consumer,or a guide line for professionals. You can cause serious damage to your vehicle and/or cause yourself injury. Only those qualified should attempt repairs. I do my best to assure that the above info is correct but take no responsibility for any damages incurred.)

 

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